PAWS Chicago Cat Resources Library
The following training protocols were developed by PAWS Chicago's Animal Health & Behavior Team. These resources can help you manage your cat's specific behavioral challenges.
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
Most cats aren’t thrilled with the prospect of being placed into a carrier, but some cats develop a strong fear or aversion to carriers. Safely placing these cats into carriers for veterinary visits or travel may seem like an impossible task.
Although it takes time, desensitizing your new cat to the presence of a carrier and counterconditioning his response to it from something fearful to positive is possible.
Choosing an Appropriate Carrier
Cats with a known history of carrier aversion often do better with carriers that are both front and top loading. Rather than pushing the cat through the front of his carrier, your cat may do better if gently lifted off the floor before being placed in the carrier through the top.
Use a carrier with a detachable top. The top can be removed with your cat still inside to make exams easier at the vet. You may also be able to coax the cat into the uncovered bottom half with food or treats. Once your cat is focused on food, gently cover the carrier with the top portion and secure it for travel.
Cat Carrier Tips
- Carriers with detachable tops can often make entering and exiting the carrier less stressful for your cat.
- Keeping comfy bedding that smells like home in the carrier at all times can also reduce stress when traveling away from home.
- When transporting your cat in the carrier, try to keep the carrier stable to avoid frightening the cat.
- Some cats feel better if the carrier is covered with a blanket or towel during travel.
Making the Carrier Less Scary
Many cats only see their carrier prior to a stressful event. Being taken from the safety of their home territory can elicit feelings of fear and anxiety in cats who might otherwise be quite confident and secure. Imagine entering your car only before trips to the dentist or prior to taking a difficult test! Just the sight of a car could understandably make you anxious and scared. If your cat only sees his carrier before experiencing something frightening, it makes perfect sense that his first reaction is to flee upon seeing it.
Making the Carrier Feel Inviting and Safe
From day one, keep your cat’s carrier in an area of the home where the family spends a lot of its time, and make it a space that your cat will find inviting and safe. Keep the carrier open, and always keep comfortable bedding inside of it. Toss your cat’s favorite treats into it every day. Once the cat becomes more comfortable with the carrier, you can even try feeding his meals inside of it. Show him that entering the carrier yields delicious rewards as often as possible.
Use Clicker Training to Teach Your cat to go to place and eventually the carrier
Clicker training is a great way to train your cat to go to a particular place in a fun and stress-free way! All you’ll need is a clicker, a mat or bed, and your cat’s favorite treats or food to start.
Training your cat to “go to place”:
- Clickers are affordable and can be found online or at most pet supply stores.
- Choose a mat or bed that can be stored when not in use or training.
- Find whatever treats or food your cat finds irresistible to use as a training reward.
- Mat training can also be used to prevent cats from counter-surfing or door-dashing.
Clicker Training Tips
- Keep training sessions short. 10-15 minutes a day should be sufficient.
- Schedule sessions prior to mealtimes or when you know your cat is hungry.
- Use your cat’s favorite treats to reinforce desired behaviors, but remember to break the treats up or use small amounts to avoid overfeeding.
- Take your time and go slow. Once your cat has mastered going to his station or place, it could take time for him to enter the carrier with confidence. Reward him for every step that gets him closer to his goal.
If you are having difficulties helping your cat with carrier aversion, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
Declawing, or onychectomy, is an elective surgery that results in the amputation of a cat’s third phalanges. Surgical amputation of the third phalanges is comparable to removing the bones closest to the fingertips in humans. It is an irreversible procedure, and the decision to declaw your cat should only be made after careful consideration of its risks, benefits, and potentially adverse outcomes.
Declawing a cat is the equivalent of amputating a human’s fingers at the knuckles closest to the fingertips.
Why Declaw?
Within the veterinary and animal welfare communities, there is disagreement regarding the merits of declawing. Some animal care professionals feel the procedure should not be performed under any circumstances. Others feel it is an acceptable alternative to relinquishment or euthanasia if destructive scratching cannot be managed in the home, or if scratching compromises the health and safety of humans in the home.
The American Veterinary Medical Association’s current position on declawing states “that the procedure only be performed after exhausting other methods of controlling scratching behavior or if it has been determined that the cat’s claws present a human health risk.”1
Potential Consequences of Declawing
Although many people report successful outcomes following their cat’s declawing, cat owners should be aware of the physical and behavioral consequences reported by others following declaw procedures:
Post-Operative Complications Following Declaw Surgery: hemorrhage (bleeding), claw regrowth, wound dehiscence (reopening of surgical incision), infection, and/or pain (both acute and chronic)
Long-term Behavioral and Physical Complications Following Declaw Surgery: inappropriate elimination/litter box avoidance, increased aggression and/or biting, overgrooming, and/or chronic back pain
A 2017 study published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery found that “declawing increases the risk of long-term or persistent pain, manifesting in unwanted behaviors such as inappropriate elimination (soiling/urinating outside the litter box) and aggression/biting.”2
Factors to Consider if Choosing to Declaw Your Cat
If you are unable to manage destructive scratching in the home or need to declaw your cat due to medical or safety concerns, we recommend adhering to the following guidelines to increase your cat’s chances of a successful outcome.
Age: Cats under the age of one year may experience fewer post-operative complications, as well shorter recovery times than cats who are declawed as adults.
Surgical Technique: Some studies have shown that performing declaws with a surgical laser, as opposed to a scalpel blade or guillotine nail trimmers, results in fewer post-operative complications.
Indoor/Outdoor Access: If your cat is declawed, do not allow him or her to have outdoor access. Declawing may affect your cat’s ability to defend itself from outside predators.
Alternatives to Declawing
If you are considering declawing in order to prevent destructive scratching in the home, you may wish to explore other ways of managing scratching before committing to the surgical procedure.
Scratching Posts
Many cats like vertical scratching posts. Make sure the post is tall enough to allow your cat to fully stretch his body and legs. The post should also be stable enough to prevent wobbling.
Some cats prefer slanted or horizontal scratchers. Offer a variety to see what your cat likes best.
Use a toy or catnip to attract your cat to an appropriate scratcher. Reward your cat with treats and verbal praise whenever he uses his scratcher.
Finding your cat’s preferred surface may require experimentation. Scratchers made from cardboard, wood, carpet, or sisal are favored by many cats.
Nail Trims
Weekly nail trims can minimize damage to your furniture.
Your veterinarian can show you the proper way to trim your cat’s nails. Most veterinary clinics will clip your cat’s nails for a reasonable fee if you are unable to do so yourself.
Soft Paws
Soft Paws are plastic nail covers for your cat. They are easy to apply, and typically need to
be replaced every 4-6 weeks. If you cannot apply them yourself, contact your veterinarian. Many vet clinics will apply Soft Paws to your cat’s nails for a reasonable fee.
References
- The American Veterinary Medical Association Animal Welfare Division. (2016, February 16). Welfare implications of declawing of domestic cats literature review. Retrieved from https://www.avma.org/KB/Resources/LiteratureReviews/Pages/Welfare-Implications-of-Declawing-of-Domestic-Cats-Backgrounder.aspx
- Science Daily. (2017, May 23). Declawing linked to aggression and other abnormal behavior in cats. Retrieved from https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2017/05/170523124130.htm
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
We never want to encourage our cats to scratch things like our furniture, walls, or carpet, but it’s important to know that scratching is a completely normal and instinctual feline behavior. Scratching is a way for cats to self-groom, to mark their territories, and to stretch their muscles.
Here’s how you can help prevent destructive scratching in the home and encourage productive scratching.
Prevention
Training your cat to use acceptable scratching surfaces may take some time. During the process, you may need to limit your cat’s access to furniture or scratch-prone surfaces. If that is not feasible, there are affordable and easy-to-use products which can temporarily be placed on these items to protect them.
Sticky Paws can be found online and at many pet supply stores. Similar to double-sided tape, many cats dislike the “sticky” feel of the tape and will avoid items covered with it. It is also furniture safe and should not leave a sticky residue.
Temporarily covering items with packing tape is another option to deter your cat from scratching items in the home. Scratching items becomes less attractive for many cats when they are unable to hook and pull fabric with their claws.
Finding the Right Scratcher for Your Cat
Finding the best scratcher for your cat may require experimentation. Every cat is an individual, and what appeals to one cat might not register with another.
Types of Scratchers
Many cats like vertical scratching posts. Make sure the post is tall enough to allow your cat to fully stretch his body and legs. The post should also be stable enough to prevent wobbling.
Some cats prefer slanted or horizontal scratchers. Offer a variety to see what your cat likes best.
Finding Your Cat's Preferred Scratching Surface
Many cats respond well to scratchers made with the following materials: cardboard, wood, sisal, rope, or carpet.
Ideas for Finicky Cats
No luck with the above? Look for scratchers made from materials similar to the furniture items your cat tends to favor. This may require some out-of-box thinking, but your cat and your sofa will thank you for it.
Many fabric and upholstery stores offer a variety of affordable or even free samples that can be used to cover traditional scratching posts and mats.
DIY scratching posts or wall-mounted scratchers are affordable, attractive, and easy to make once you find your cat’s preferred scratching surface.
Scratching mats can be draped over sofas or wrapped around table or chair legs to prevent the cat from scratching the upholstery or wood.
Attracting Your Cat to His Scratcher
Once you choose the best scratcher for your cat, how you introduce it and positively reinforce its use are key to success.
Many cats prefer their scratchers placed near their sleeping spots, as well as in areas of the home they view as their territorial boundaries (e.g. windows, doorways, and entryways to different parts of the home).
Pavlov’s Cat
Pavlov’s Cat Scratcher has a built-in treat dispenser that rewards your cat with a tasty treat every time he uses the post.
Toys and Catnip
Use a toy or catnip to attract your cat to an appropriate scratcher. Reward your cat with treats and verbal praise whenever he uses his scratcher.
Additional Tips
Nail Trims
Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed regularly can help minimize the damage done to your furniture and other household items. Cutting the “tips” of the nail makes it difficult for the cat to “hook and pull” upholstery and carpet fibers.
Soft Paws
If despite your best efforts, your cat continues to scratch at undesirable surfaces, there is still hope. Many cat owners swear by a product called Soft Paws. Soft Paws are plastic nail covers for your cat. They are easy to apply, and typically need to be replaced every 4-6 weeks. Soft Paws allow your cat to scratch at any surface he chooses without doing damage to your home and furniture. They are a safe and humane alternative to declawing. If you cannot apply them yourself, contact your veterinarian. Many vet clinics will apply Soft Paws to your cat’s nails for a reasonable fee.
If you are having difficulties managing your cat’s scratching in the home, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
There are several things which can contribute to a cat’s inability to successfully use her litter box some or all of the time. If your cat stops using the litter box consistently to urinate or defecate, make an appointment for a veterinary exam as soon as possible. Many cats stop using their litter boxes due to an underlying medical condition. Before looking into behavioral reasons for your cat’s litter box avoidance, it is essential that you first rule out an underlying medical cause under the direction of your veterinarian.
Non-medical reasons for litter box avoidance typically fall into one of the following categories: litter box maintenance; location preference; and/or environmental stressors.
Litter Box Maintenance
Cats are very clean animals. Scooping your cat’s litter box at least 1-2 times a day, every day, is recommended. Completely disposing of your cat’s old litter, cleaning the empty box, and refilling it with new litter should be done every 2-3 weeks. If you notice a strong odor coming from the box or find that the litter is not clumping well, you may need to change the litter more frequently.
Avoid using harsh chemicals or cleansers when cleaning your litter box. Cleaning your litter box with a mild, unscented dish detergent or just hot water is preferable, since many cats dislike the smell of bleach and other disinfectants.
- Scoop 1-2 times daily
- Dispose of litter every 2-3 weeks
- Avoid harsh chemicals
Number of Boxes
The general rule-of-thumb is to have one box for every cat in a household plus an extra. Some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In multi-cat households, extra boxes can prevent one cat from “guarding” the litter box from his companion cats. If you live in a home with multiple levels, a box should be placed on every floor that the cat can access.
Prevent litter box guarding by having multiple boxes in different areas of the home. Two boxes per cat, and one box on each floor of a multi-level home, is the general rule-of-thumb.
Types of Boxes
Covered vs. Uncovered
Many cats also prefer an uncovered box. Covered boxes tend to retain odors (similar to an outdoor porta potty). Some cats may also feel insecure when using a covered box since they don’t have a clear view of their surroundings. If your cat doesn’t feel like he can see potential threats, he may choose a different location to eliminate that makes him feel less vulnerable. Also, self-cleaning boxes may be more convenient for cat owners, but the noise can frighten some cats and lead them to find other elimination locations.
- Many cats prefer an uncovered box. They feel more secure with a clear view if their surroundings.
- Covered boxes tend to retain more odors than uncovered boxes. You may need to clean your covered box more often than if using an uncovered box.
Box Size
Box size is also important. The box should ideally be about 1.5 times the length of your cat, so he can easily turn his entire body around in the box. As your cat gets older, he may need a box with lower sides if it becomes hard for him to climb into the box easily.
- Your cat may not be able to use the box successfully if it's too small.
- Litter box too small? Covert a storage container to a size more suitable for your cat. Cut one side down, so the cat can enter and exit the box easily.
Litter Type
The type of litter or substrate that your cat prefers varies with each cat. As a general rule, most cats do not like scented litters. Additionally, fine-grained clumping litters are usually preferred over those with large particles, pellets, or crystals. In the wild, cats gravitate toward sand or dirt for elimination substrates, and litters whose textures are closer to that tend to be favored by many cats.
Avoid plastic litter box liners. Liners make clean up much easier for cat owners, but your cat’s nails can easily get caught in the plastic material.
Many cats prefer a fine to medium-grained, unscented clumping litter. Experiment to see which type of litter your cat prefers.
Location
- Keep multiple boxes in separate locations. This is especially important if you have a multi-cat household in order to prevent litter box guarding.
- Litter boxes should be kept in a location separate from your cat’s food and water stations. Like most people, cats do not like to eliminate in the same spot where they eat and drink.
- Cats tend to prefer an easily accessible litter box that gives them a clear view of their surroundings. Cats are both a prey and predatory species. As such, they will feel most comfortable if they can clearly see what they may perceive as potential threats approaching them.
- Avoid placing boxes in high-traffic areas of the home. If there is too much commotion, your cat may not be able to relax enough to use the litter box, and he may seek out other locations.
- Avoid placing the box near washers, dryers, or other noisy appliances that could frighten the cat and cause him to avoid that location all together.
- Keeping air fresheners near your cat’s box may also deter him from using the box.
- Boxes placed near windows can also be problematic if it enables cats or wildlife from the outside to see into your own cat’s home. Visual contact with animals outside the home can frighten the cat and deter him from using the box because of its location.
Litter boxes that are “hidden” may be aesthetically pleasing for cat owners, but locations that limit the cat’s ability to see his surroundings may make your cat feel vulnerable and less likely to use his box consistently.
Place boxes in low-traffic areas of the home that provide your cat with privacy and a clear view of his surroundings.
Some cats will avoid using boxes placed in high-traffic areas of the home, boxes placed near views of the outside, or boxes placed next to noisy appliances that turn on unexpectedly.
Environmental Stressors
Cats tend to do best with a consistent and predictable schedule. If they can rely on regularly scheduled meal times and play sessions, they feel more secure than with an erratic home environment.
Ask yourself if there have been any significant changes to your cat’s home environment or routine. New additions to the family (animal or human), changes in your work schedule, moving to a new residence, more time spent outside the home, or even rearranging furniture can sometimes stress out cats and lead to litter box avoidance.
If an environmental stressor is inadvertently causing your cat to eliminate outside the litter box, contact your adoption counselor. We may be able to provide strategies for helping your cat adjust to changes in his routine or environment.
Cleaning Up Messes
A cat’s sense of smell is extremely strong. We recommend purchasing an enzymatic cleaner that can break down the chemical compounds in cat urine that produce its particular smell. If the odor is not removed entirely, your cat may continue to eliminate in the same spot again and again. Any major pet store will have enzymatic cleaners. A popular brand is called “Nature’s Miracle.” Be sure to follow the instructions exactly.
Unfortunately, if the cat has eliminated on the carpet or a sofa cushion again and again, these items may need to be replaced. Many cat owners purchase black lights that can be used to identify all areas in the home in need of a thorough cleaning.
Enzymatic cleaners break down the uric acid in your cat’s urine. These cleaners eradicate odors that your cat can smell, even if you don’t.
If your cat is experiencing litter box aversion, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
Petting-induced aggression, or overstimulation, commonly occurs when a seemingly peaceful cat bites or scratches while being pet. Although it may appear as if the bite comes out of nowhere and is unprovoked, many cats display signs they are approaching their comfort threshold prior to biting. Overstimulated cats are not mean or angry, just overwhelmed. With the behavior modification tips below, you can help ensure your newest family member is always at ease.
Managing Overstimulation
When petting your cat, stick to safe spots where most cats enjoy being touched: the top of the head, sides of the face, underside of the chin, and no farther down than the back of the neck. Common areas to avoid include the cat’s belly, legs, and paws.
Keep your petting sessions short. After about 1-3 seconds of petting, take a break to assess your cat’s body language. If you observe any signs of overstimulation, cease the interaction, and give the cat space. If the cat appears relaxed and calm, continue on for another 1-3 seconds and repeat the above process.
Common Signs of Impending Overstimulation
- Purring stops
- Tail lashing or thumping
- Skin twitching or appearing to ripple
- Shifting body positions, tensed muscles, or withdrawing from touch
- Ears are lowered and resembles airplane wings or begin rotating backwards against the head
- Dilated pupils
- Growling, hissing
- Hard, fixed stares directed at the person's hand or arm
If you observe any of these signals while petting a cat, immediately refrain from touching the cat and give him a break.
My Cat Doesn’t Show Any Signs of Overstimulation Before Nipping. What Now?
Although many cats show signs of impending overstimulation, some give signs that are extremely subtle. If your cat’s signs of overstimulation are difficult to determine, use a tool to help you define your cat’s boundaries safely.
Using a wand/teaser toy, wrap the attachment around one end of the toy’s handle. Present the toy to your cat, and use the soft end to lightly pet different parts of her body. If your cat withdraws, hisses, bites, or displays any of the other signs of overstimulation, avoid petting these areas.
A wand/teaser toy can be used to gauge your cat’s sensitivity to touch. Gently pet the cat with the soft end of the toy as you would with your hand.
Cat owners can utilize a wand/teaser toy to desensitize their cat to touch while using food rewards to counter condition the cat’s response.
If you are having difficulties managing your cat’s petting-induced aggression, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
“Play aggression” is a term used to describe feline behaviors associated with a cat’s natural predatory tendencies. These behaviors are considered aggressive when directed at humans. If a cat’s environment does not allow him to channel his normal, instinctual predatory drives in an appropriate manner, the cat may bite and/or scratch human caregivers due to frustration.
Additionally, there are some cats who were played with roughly or whose previous human caregivers used hands and feet as “toys.” These cats were inadvertently taught that it is acceptable to bite and scratch humans, similar to the way they would typically bite and scratch feline companions during play.
Cats who were not exposed to other cats and kittens during the important socialization stage of development may also have poor bite inhibition. They never learned that hard bites and scratches during play are not acceptable. These cats, like all cats, need appropriate outlets for channeling their predatory drives. There are a number of things you can do to manage play aggression in the home, while keeping your cat happy and safe.
Never use your hands or feet as a “toy” when playing with your cat.
Managing Play Aggression in the Home
Engaging your cat in structured play can help channel your cat’s energy in a safe way. Structured or interactive play consists of using toys to mimic the prey species your cat would hunt for in the wild. Wand toys with feathers and long ribbons can be used to mimic the natural movements of rodents, snakes, or birds. The goal is get your cat to go through a sequence of observing, stalking, chasing, pouncing, and catching the wand’s attachment like he would in an outdoor setting with a real prey species.
This video is on structured play from Cat Behavior Specialist Jackson Galaxy.
Try to provide your cat with at least 2-3 structured play sessions throughout the day. Ideally, these sessions should last for 10-15 minutes. Cats easily become bored with the same toy, so you will want a few different kinds of wand toys. These should be stored in a location that the cat cannot access, so they remain novel to him and as a safety precaution. If your cat seems to get bored playing with one toy after 5 minutes, you can try introducing a new toy to extend the play session.
After a play session, your cat may be in a heightened state of arousal. Do not attempt to interact with him through petting until he is calm and relaxed. Offering him a food reward or meal at the end of a play session can help redirect his attention away from the game, provide him with a satisfying reward for a successful “hunt,” and help calm him down from an excited state.
You can also mix things up by using a laser pointer to help the cat expel energy. Keep in mind, though, that you need to have treats or food placed strategically throughout the play area. Use the dot to occasionally lead the cat to a food reward. If you don’t incorporate food rewards into a laser pointer play session, you may frustrate the cat since he can never actually catch the red dot.
You can also place soft toys throughout the play area while using the laser pointer. Since the cat can never grab onto the red dot, move the dot so it’s on top of one of the toys, and keep it there. This way, the cat can actually grab onto a toy that he can grab and bite.
Conducting one of these play sessions about an hour before you plan to retire for the evening is a good idea. Tiring him out through play and then feeding him will hopefully get him to sleep through the night and not disturb you while you are trying to sleep.
Immediately stop any play session if the cat grabs onto or nips at any part of your body. If this happens, leave the room for a few minutes and cease any and all interactions until he has time to calm down. We need to teach him that certain behaviors (biting and scratching people) result in all the fun and attention he craves being taken away. Never yell or physically punish your cat if he behaves inappropriately. This will only make him fearful of you.
Laser pointer play is a great way to provide your cat with extra enrichment. Make sure you use the red dot to lead your cat to food and toy rewards throughout the play session.
How to Anticipate and Respond to Inappropriate Behavior
The nips and scratches accompanying play aggression can sometimes be hard to predict. Cats prone to play aggression typically won’t hiss or growl. Their tails usually don’t twitch rapidly, and their fur doesn’t stand on end. Watch out for the following behaviors which usually precede an “ambush”:
- Silent stalking – the cat appears to be stalking you or hiding behind objects (doors, chairs, etc.) and staring intensely at your arms or legs in much the same way he stares at his wand toys before getting ready to pounce.
- While staring at you, the cat gets into a crouching position while his rear end wiggles.
- If you notice your cat engaging in any of these behaviors while not in the middle of a play session, find a toy that can be tossed (a toy ball or mouse) to interrupt his concentration and allow him to chase after and bite into something appropriate. You may need to clap loudly to initially interrupt his focus before tossing him a toy to chase.
- If your cat does make contact with your body, freeze, and let out a squeak or yelp to interrupt the behavior. Wait for the cat to release and leave your space before moving. You can also offer him a stuffed toy with which to redirect his attention before exiting the cat’s space. Do your best to stay calm since extreme responses can sometimes cause a cat’s aggression to escalate, and leave the room for a few minutes. Withdrawing attention is something a cat’s mother and littermates engage in when a kitten bites too hard or displays inappropriate behavior. Ignore the cat, and do not offer pets or verbal praise until he is calm, relaxed, and behaving appropriately.
- Don’t let your cat sneak up on you! Fitting your cat with a break-away bell collar can alert you to the cat’s presence before he has a chance to pounce.
- When a cat is readying herself to pounce, interrupt her focus, and provide her with a toy that she can chase after before she has a chance to pounce on you.
- The Cat Kickeroo is a popular toy that can be used to redirect your cat’s attention to an appropriate object if he is in a high arousal state. Many cats enjoy biting, kicking, and scratching toys like the Kickeroo as an alternative to their owner’s arms and legs.
Environmental Enrichment
Environmental enrichment is a great way to provide your cat with objects and activities that he can investigate, explore, and play with when you are unable to actively play with him. Boredom can result in inappropriate attention-seeking behaviors for many cats, so it’s important to give them an interesting and enriched environment to keep their minds and bodies active and engaged.
Cat trees
Cat trees are great for exploration and viewing one’s territory from a safe vantage point. Place near a window if possible.
Window perches
Window perches are excellent for lounging and watching exciting outdoor activities.
Cardboard boxes and paper bags
Hide treats and toys in cardboard boxes and paper bags (handles cut off) to encourage your cat to explore the environment in a fun and inexpensive way.
Stuffed toys and balls
Self-directed object play allows cats to practice their hunting skills independently. Have a variety of stuffed toys and balls around the home for your cat to investigate and explore.
Catnip
Catnip is tons of fun for many cats, but it could also overstimulate your cat. Avoid offering catnip to cats with a history of play aggression.
Electronic toys
Electronic toys mimic the movements of prey species, and encourage cats to practice their hunting skills independently.
Puzzle feeders
Puzzle feeders extend mealtime and provide mental enrichment for cats as they discover how to reach the food.
Short on cash? This website shows cat owners how to make their own puzzle feeders from everyday household objects:
Pavlov's Cat
Pavlov’s Cat is a puzzle feeder and scratching post in one! It reinforces using appropriate scratching surfaces by rewarding your cats with a treat or dry food every time they use the post.
If you are having difficulties managing your cat’s play aggression, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
Congratulations on adopting your new family member!
There are several common reasons why cats develop fear-based responses. Some cats never got the opportunity to properly socialize with people, animals, or environments during key periods of their development. Other cats develop fear responses based on past experiences. Every cat is unique, and some cats are naturally more sensitive than others.
Fortunately, there are a number of techniques cat owners can employ to help fearful cats adjust to a new home setting and family.
Setting up a Safe Home Environment from Day One
Every cat should be introduced to their new home via a “safe room.” This is especially important when adopting a shy cat. Giving your new cat free reign over the entire household space can be very overwhelming for a fearful cat. Safe rooms help minimize the chances of your cat fleeing to a hiding spot that you cannot locate.
Your safe room can be a bathroom, bedroom, office, or any enclosed space that can contain all of your new cat’s essential resources (e.g. litter box, bedding, food and water dishes, toys, and scratchers). Before letting your new cat out of the carrier, block off any areas that could serve as a potential “hiding spot” for the new kitty. Use boxes, crates, or storage containers to block off the cat’s access to the underside of beds, bookcases, and dressers. Keep closet doors closed if they are too small for you to sit comfortably without overwhelming the cat. Block off the tops of cabinets if they are too high for you to interact with the cat.
Use cardboard boxes to create enclosures for your cat to feel secure in while still in the safe room. Add soft towels or blankets to the boxes and spray them with Feliway (about 30 minutes prior to use) to provide the cat with a comforting space that allows him to feel safe while you interact with him and work on building trust.
As your cat gains confidence and trust in his new family, he can gradually be introduced to other areas of the home.
Using Synthetic Pheromones to Reduce Stress
Synthetic feline pheromones mimic the naturally-produced feline pheromone that is released when a cat rubs the side of his face on furniture, walls, other cats, and people. Marking areas of the safe room with the spray can create feelings of calm and reduce stress and anxiety for some cats. If using the spray, spritz the walls of the safe room about eight inches off the ground (think cat height) daily, as well as the cat’s bedding. Do not spray near the cat’s litter box or food and water, and do not spray the cat with the product. A plug-in diffuser is also available. Feliway is a well-known synthetic pheromone available online and at most pet supply stores: https://www.feliway.com/us/Buy
Building a Positive Relationship with Your Shy/Fearful Cat
The key to building a positive relationship with a shy and fearful cat is patience. The amount of time it will take for your cat to adjust to a new home can vary. It’s important not to push interactions with fearful cats before they are ready, or they may backtrack with their progress.
Space Sharing
Try to share space with your shy cat multiple times a day while he is adjusting to his new home. Initially, you may only be able to sit in the cat’s presence without any direct contact to show that you are not a threat. Sitting on the floor and reading while ignoring the cat is one way to show him that your presence is not something to fear.
Never reach over the cat with your hands or tower above him when working on building trust. Sit on the ground near him or stand near his perch, but don’t face directly toward him or maintain eye contact for more than a second or two. Speak in soft, soothing tones, and if he appears relaxed, allow him to smell your hand and pet the top of his head (no farther than the back of his neck) for 1-3 seconds. After that, stop to observe his body language. If he still appears relaxed and receptive to more pets, continue this a few more times before stopping the petting session. Offer him a few high-value treats or a teaspoon of his favorite canned food to end things on a high note.
Learning How to Recognize Signs of Fearfulness in Your Cat
It can sometimes be difficult to ascertain a cat’s mood. Your new cat won’t be able to tell you he’s scared or uncomfortable with words, but an understanding of feline body language can give cat owners insight into their cat’s emotional state.
Signs of Fearfulness
- Tensed muscles
- Excessive lip licking
- Legs held directly under the body when lying down/body geld low to the ground
- Tail wrapped tightly around the body, lashing back and fourth quickly, or tucked between the back legs
- Fur standing on end or appearing puffed up
- Dilated pupils
- Ears held down and to the side (airplane ears)
- Head tucked closely to the body
- "Freezing"/no movement when approached
- Withdrawing from your hand when offered for pets
- Fleeing, hiding or backing into a corner when approached
- Low growls, hissing, or swiping when approached
If your cat displays the above signs, refrain from petting or attempting to directly handle the cat. Continue to share space with the cat, speak quietly with him, and offer treats once he appears more relaxed and calm.
Signs that your cat is calm and relaxed
- Front legs stretched out if reclining or fully erect if upright
- Partially exposed belly if lying down (don’t pet the belly)
- Fur lying flat against the body
- Tail and body are loose and relaxed
- Tail held upright when standing
- Pupils moderately dilated
- Eyes soft or half-closed
- Ears forward
- Leaning into your hands if offered for pets
- Kneading motions made with paws
- Purring or silent
Developing a Bond with Food
Staying with your cat during mealtimes is one way to show him that your presence brings with it good things. It may take some time and experimentation to find a food that your new cat will go bananas over. Purchase a variety of canned foods and treats to find your cat’s favorite. Stay in the safe room with your cat during mealtimes, so he learns that you are the source of the food he loves.
Initially, you may have to sit on the opposite side of the room (or just outside the room) and not even look at the cat during mealtimes. Over time, move closer to the cat during feedings. If possible, do not leave food in the room when you aren’t there, and keep a consistent schedule for mealtimes.
Once the cat is comfortable enough to eat near you consistently, you can try petting his head softly a few time while he is focused on the food. Practicing limited petting while your cat is focused on food can help shy cats become more receptive to pets and human contact over time.
If you are working with a kitten or an adult cat who has not eaten for over 24 hours, DO NOT WITHHOLD FOOD. Leave the kitten or cat with kibble to free-feed upon. Use high-value treats, canned food, or Gerber #2 baby food during interactions with the cat to build trust.
Developing a Bond with Play
As your cat becomes more relaxed in your company, try engaging him in play sessions a few times a day.
Engaging your cat in some form of structured play is a great way to channel your cat’s energy and boost confidence in shy cats, as well as helping you and your new cat develop a bond. Structured or interactive play consists of using toys to mimic the prey species your cat would hunt for in the wild. Wand toys with feathers and long ribbons can be used to mimic the natural movements of rodents, snakes, or birds.
Here is a video on structured play from Cat Behavior Specialist Jackson Galaxy.
Cats easily become bored with the same toy, so you will want a few different kinds of wand toys. These should be stored in a location that the cat cannot access, so they remain novel to him and as a safety precaution. If your cat seems to get bored playing with one toy after 5 minutes, you can try introducing a new toy to extend the play session.
Environmental Enrichment
Environmental enrichment is a great way to provide your cat with objects and activities that he can investigate, explore, and play with when you are unable to actively play with him. An enriched environment can keep your cat’s mind and body active, which in turn, helps boost confidence.
Cat trees
Cat trees are great for exploration and viewing one’s territory from a safe vantage point. Place near a window if possible.
Window perches
Window perches are excellent for lounging and watching exciting outdoor activities.
Cardboard boxes and paper bags
Hide treats and toys in cardboard boxes and paper bags (handles cut off) to encourage your cat to explore the environment in a fun and inexpensive way.
Stuffed toys and balls
Self-directed object play allows cats to practice their hunting skills independently. Have a variety of stuffed toys and balls around the home for your cat to investigate and explore.
Catnip
Catnip is tons of fun for many cats, but it could also overstimulate your cat. Avoid offering catnip to cats with a history of play aggression.
Electronic toys
Electronic toys mimic the movements of prey species, and encourage cats to practice their hunting skills independently.
Puzzle feeders
Puzzle feeders extend mealtime and provide mental enrichment for cats as they discover how to reach the food.
Short on cash? This website shows cat owners how to make their own puzzle feeders from everyday household objects:
Pavlov's Cat
Pavlov’s Cat is a puzzle feeder and scratching post in one! It reinforces using appropriate scratching surfaces by rewarding your cats with a treat or dry food every time they use the post.
If you are having difficulties building a relationship with your cat, please contact us at adoptions@pawschicago.org. We can direct you to someone who can help.
